As prospectors learned, Placerville is worth exploring

By Gwen Schoen - Bee Staff Writer

The Gold Bug Park and Mine is just a short drive from downtown Placerville. Inside the 61-acre park, you can pan for gold, tour the historic mine, visit the museum and stamp mill and hike the many trails. Sacramento Bee/Gwen Schoen

If it weren't for the traffic signal right smack in the middle of Highway 50, you might zip past Placerville without giving it even a peripheral glance.

Many overlook Placerville as a destination for an afternoon of adventure, but they're missing out on the city's many art shops and interesting boutiques.

The town we know as Placerville was a gold-mining center in the mid-1800s. It originally was known as Hangtown, which says a lot about its origin and its history. There are many legends about the town's original name, all of which center on a tale of swift judgment and an oak tree.

The tree is long gone, although the proprietors of the Hangman's Tree Tavern on Main Street claim the tavern stands on the original hanging site and the stump of the tree is in the cellar. When the residents of the town decided they needed a more refined name, Placerville was chosen because of the rich deposits of placer gold found in the nearby hills during the Gold Rush.

No doubt those early gold seekers who settled Placerville would be amazed at how their town has changed. Many of the historic buildings are still standing along Main Street, but instead of rough-and-tumble establishments like the Jackass Inn, today's visitors will find the sophisticated Cary House hotel, the WineSmith, Andrea's Vintage Cottage home decor, Tony Matthews upscale kitchenware, and Annieberries children's clothes, to name a few.

Placerville is an easy drive up Highway 50. Once you get there, parking is plentiful, especially on a weekday, and exploring and shopping the area is an easy stroll. The historic section of town stretches along Main Street between Pacific Street and Bedford Avenue, ending at the courthouse. At the center of the historic area is the 140-year-old bell tower, a monument to the city's volunteer firefighters. The tower is often the starting point and gathering place for the city's events and parades.

For a casual lunch, look for the Fountain Plaza at 312 Main St. It's a narrow, brick-lined alley that winds between the buildings. There you will find the Courtyard Cafe with secluded outdoor seating. Along that same path you'll pass Dedrick's Main Street Cheese, loaded with exotic cheese to sample and buy. Back on Main Street, stop by the WineSmith to sample microbrews and wines or pick up winemaking supplies.

Of course, no trip to Placerville is complete without a cruise through Placerville Hardware at 441 Main St. The proprietor claims this is the oldest continuously operating hardware store west of the Mississippi. The store began in 1854, stocking gold pans and shovels for gold miners. In fact, you can still buy a gold pan there. The place smells of oil, wood and popcorn. Grooves are worn into the wooden floors, and merchandise is stacked so high that clerks use ladders to reach much of it. You'll find just about anything here, from canning jars and saltwater taffy to American flags, hammers and nails.

Historic Placerville hosts several special events worth noting: Aug. 12 is the annual Main Street Craft Faire with over 100 artisans attending; and Sept. 30 is the annual Antique Street Faire sponsored by the Placerville Downtown Association. The city also has a Third Saturday Art Walk & Family Night Out every month from 6 to 9 p.m. in Historic Downtown.

If you are up for a true Gold Rush experience, plan a side trip to Hangtown's Gold Bug Park and Mine. From Main Street, it's just a short drive up Bedford Avenue. You'll find a covered picnic area, hiking trails, and a museum and gift shop. For a small fee you can take a self-guided tour of the mine, or you can make advance arrangements for a guided tour. You also can rent a gold pan to dip into the pay-dirt trough. Do pay attention to the signs warning of poison oak, and keep an eye open for snakes. We saw both the day we visited.

IF YOU GO

Getting there: Placerville is about 40 miles from Sacramento. Take Highway 50 east toward Lake Tahoe. Exit at Spring Street in Placerville. Turn left on Main Street.

To get to the Gold Bug Park and Mine, continue northeast on Main Street. Turn left on Bedford Avenue and follow it for about a mile. Turn right on Goldbug Lane, which is the entrance to the park.

When: Museums and many shops are closed Mondays. The Gold Bug Park and Mine is open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., weather permitting.

How much: Parking in historic Placerville is free for the first two hours. After that, it's $1 per hour. Admission to Gold Bug Park is free. Admission to the mine is $4 general, $2 children ages 7 to 16. Check in at Hattie's Museum. Audio cassettes for self-guided tours are available to rent for $1.

Reservations: For guided group tours at Gold Bug Park, (530) 642-5238.

Information: Gold Bug Park general information, (530) 642-5207 or www.goldbugpark.org. For Historic Placerville, (530) 672-3436 or www.placerville-downtown.org.

About the writer:

* The Bee's Gwen Schoen can be reached at (916) 321-1146 or gschoen@sacbee.com.

The 140-year-old bell tower at the center of historic Placerville is a monument to the city's volunteer firefighters. Sacramento Bee/Gwen Schoen

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Published 12:00 am PDT Sunday, July 8, 2007
Story appeared in TRAVEL section, Page M

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